tarte tatin de reves

27 Sep

I’m in love. Again. I’m fickle.

Once, it was the macaron. Always dressed in a new colour, a new coat. Fashionable, delicate, ever-so rich.

Then, it was the rustic warmth of the pasteis de nata. A transplanted version – I can only imagine how spectacular the real deal Lisbon tart might be.

For the moment I am dithering between two men, two experts. Jacques Genin conquers my heart every time with his delicate mastery of chocolate and caramel… and yet Philippe Conticini’s sense of colour and design is so winning. And his videos. I heart the lemon meringue tart. (And the bossy little French kids! Adorable!)

Like any love affair though, there is a frustrating element of mystery. He shows most everything, except the secret trick-knack-twist that makes it perfect. I studied this tarte tatin video most carefully before attempting my own. Those thin strips of apple melding into a soft caramel jelly, on a crisp strip of puff pastry – avoiding the stodge and sogginess that traps a humdrum tarte tatin in the everyday. This one is special.

The first attempt was a watery disaster. (Of course, I do not have a specially adapted apple peeler.) The second time I made it in a loaf tin and crucially, after baking, left it in the fridge weighed down with numerous cans to absorb the sweet liquid. Then flipped it out on the a rectangle of puff pastry (baked and caramelised seperately) sprinkled it with streusel for a bit of bite, and most importantly, served it with lightly whipped vanilla cream.

It was perfection. A dream tatin. And I will be fiercely loyal to it…

…until the next obsession.

Tarte Tatin de Reves

as inspired by Philippe Conticini – makes enough for 6 elegant desserts

(note: rice flour in the streusel makes it featherlight and crisp, but substitute ground almonds if more easily available, for a nice richness and crunch)

~~~

7 golden delicious apples, preferably ripe and a bit wrinkly

70g sugar

30g butter

for the pastry:

one packet puff pastry

a handful caster sugar

a little icing sugar for sprinkling

for the streusel:

25g butter

25g caster sugar

25g flour

25g rice flour (or ground almonds)

to serve:

200g thick cream for whipping

20g vanilla sugar / icing sugar + half a vanilla bean

First, watch the video above!

Now heat the oven to 160C, get out a non-stick wide loaf tin.

In a small pan, put the caster sugar on a medium-high heat to caramelise. Watch it carefully as you peel the apples – do not stir , just tilt from side to side if it browns unevenly. When it is a deep dark brown, throw in the butter and stand back. Pour half into of the loaf tin and swirl to coat the bottom.

Using a wide peeler like the one in my drawing above, try to peel long thin strips of apple around its equator, as long as you can. Keep going until you get to the core. Roughly chop the cores, and boil them in a small saucepan just covered with water.

Arrange your apple strips lengthways in the loaf tin, trying to keep the height as even as possible. Tuck any scraps in as well. Add a splash of the apple-core water to the rest of the caramel and heat it gently to a juice-like consistency. Pour over the apples.

Bake for 40 minutes or so, until the apples are completely soft and a dark brown liquid is bubbling around the edges. Remove from the oven, let cool a little, then cover with clingfilm. Find something heavy to use as a weight: I found an unopened juice container to be about the right size. Refrigerate the tin with the weight on top. The juice will then be absorbed into the apples, which will be compressed into a fine jelly. Leave for a few hours or overnight.

For the pastry:

Cut a long strip of puff pastry a few centimetres longer and wider than the loaf tin. Sprinkle a handful of caster sugar on some baking paper and place the pastry on top. (This will caramelise the bottom.) Bake for 20 minutes at 180C until puffed up and light golden. Gently press it down with another sheet of baking paper, then shake a thick layer of icing sugar over it and put back in the oven at 200C for 10 minutes to go shiny and brown.

For the streusel: 

Rub all the ingredients together with your fingers, squeeze together into an irregular rubble. Scatter over a baking tray and bake at 180c for 5-10 minutes, until just golden.

To serve:

Remove the weights and clingfilm from the apples and flip (cross your fingers!) onto the puff pastry that is already on a serving plate. Either arrange the streusel neatly along the sides or scatter on top. Whip some cream to soft peaks and stir in vanilla sugar / sugar and scraped seeds from a vanilla bean. Slice neat widths of the tarte tatin, let your guests add cream and extra crumble.

8 Responses to “tarte tatin de reves”

  1. rachel September 29, 2012 at 5:38 am #

    It is special indeed. Quite intruging too. I haven’t made one for years. Maybe i should. Your drawing are as always a delight and refuge from the foodphotodeluge I inflict on myself daily. Lovely lovely.

    • sunflowerchild11 October 12, 2012 at 9:56 pm #

      I suffer from food photo (foodto?) envy almost constantly! I love yours because they are simple and beautifully lit.

  2. Sarah Muston September 29, 2012 at 7:35 am #

    C’est magnifique !!!

    • sunflowerchild11 October 12, 2012 at 9:55 pm #

      Je vous remercie, madame, c’est vraiment trop gentil de votre part! 🙂

  3. Catriona June 3, 2015 at 4:12 pm #

    Oh thank you ever so much, I had to make this within half an hour of being fortuitous enough to stumble across your delightful blog! I have tried many a tarte tatin recipe and this leaves every one standing. I wonder, would I be able to make it with Granny Smith apples or do you think the acidity may interfere? I’m also very intrigued about how you gently flatten the puff half way through as opposed to docking it – I always have ttrouble trying to make Mille feuille with a nice glazed top, would you suggest using the same technique? Or if you could enlighten me I would be terribly appreciative!

    • Frances June 10, 2015 at 10:15 am #

      Hi Catriona!
      I think Granny Smith would be really nice – the sharpness will balance the caramel. If you are worried about too much acidity, try a mix of Golden Delicious and Granny Smith. To flatten puff pastry, once it is puffed and golden you just cover it with a piece of paper and gently press down – wearing oven gloves of course. Or you can put another tray on top to press it evenly. You can also bake it for the first half with a sheet of paper and a grill (or cooling rack) on top so that it rises evenly.

      For a nice glaze on top, I like to sprinkle a tablespoon of caster sugar on the baking paper before placing the uncooked puff pastry on top. Then when you come to press it down half way through baking, I also flip the pastry upside down so the flat shiny side is face up. The sugar should have melted onto the pastry to form the glaze you are looking for. I hope that makes sense?!

      • Catriona June 17, 2015 at 2:20 pm #

        It makes perfect sense. Thank you very much for your reply and thanks again for sharing with us

Trackbacks/Pingbacks

  1. honey bee tuiles with almonds and coconut (gluten-free) | tangerine drawings - August 19, 2013

    […] which one ‘my body is a temple’ tended to shun dessert. (I did remake last year’s tarte tatin for a dinner party but that only consists of peeling apples and baking apples, leaving them in the […]

What do you think?

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s

%d bloggers like this: